Oh to see a tiger …

Today we are based in Ranthambore National Park, staying at a hotel/resort just outside the park called The Pugmark (which is the Hindi word for footprint). The park itself, located in Rajasthan was established in 1980 and covers 1,334 km2. Prior to 1980 it was a game sanctuary but in 1973 became part of Project Tiger in a bid to save the tiger from extinction (due to poaching). When it was first established there were less than 20 tigers but there are now over 80 and the Indian authorities are looking at ways to expand the park as the numbers grow.

We were up and ready to join our first safari of the day well before sunrise. Our guide, driver, jeep and fellow safari travellers (including Yash who doesn’t get to go on the safaris very often) arrived just after 6.15 and then we were away.

The park is split into 10 zones with 6 through to 10 further away and taking longer to get to. We were given zone 2 which was exciting to hear as apparently the zones closer to the entrance have a higher chance to spotting a tiger.

So off we headed, stopping so our guide could buy our entrance ticket at the main gate and then on to gate 2. At each gate there is a National Park employee posted to record the cars going in and going out. Only a certain number are allowed in to each zone. We travelled for about 10 minutes, with the sky slowly brightening as the sun began to rise, and then came to a stop along with 3 other jeeps. We had all stopped because we were one of the lucky groups … we saw a tiger. It is very rare to actually see a tiger … so having come across this one in the first 10 minutes was incredible. 

All of us in the jeep, and those in the other 3, were out of our seats and standing on the seats trying desperately to get a better view. At one point the tiger moved so we all clambered back down in our seats and our fabulous driver reversed at speed down the track (with all the other jeeps following) so we could spy the tiger again. It was apparently a young male … how they can tell from that distance is beyond me. I dutifully snapped photos on my “good camera” … not my phone … and have one blurry photo. However the couple who were also part of our tour are dedicated photographers (they spend 20 days out of a month in the jungles and National Parks tracking all the different cats) and had massive cameras and lenses (they actually didn’t bring their really big lens!) and they let us take a photo of their photo!

So after sitting for about 15 minutes, waiting for the tiger to reappear, we headed further into the park. Travelling on rough roads between two mountain escarpments we went in search of other tigers and failing that, other animals. At the top of one escarpment is the ruins of the Ranthambore Fort which was built in the 10th century. Whilst you cannot get to the fort very easily we were granted plenty of views as we travelled along our rough road.

In the rest of the time spent in the park we saw lots of other animals and birds  ... Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Black-faced Langur (monkey), Mongoose, Indian Peafowl, Jungle Babbler, Rufous Treepie, White-throated Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher, Cormorant and the rare, lesser known Echidna and Platypus.

We were also given plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and terrain which included rocky crags, water ponds,  tree lined Plains and massive Banyan trees with their gnarled air roots hanging down from their branches.

After about two and a half hours it was time to leave and head back. The park is open from 6.30 to 10.00 in the morning so we needed to be out before they closed the gates (we believe the guide is fined if they are late leaving the park).

Ian here ...

We returned to our resort a little before 10am with instructions to be back in the foyer around 2.15-2.30 for our afternoon safari. Breakfast is held over for all of those out on the jeeps so we arrived in time for some peanut cutlets, Indian breads, fresh-cooked scrambled eggs and hot coffee (for Jacqui). Our early morning Dutch companions returned from their fourth safari and are yet to see a tiger.

Time to freshen up after breakfast before we adjourned to the stargazing platform by the lawns to while away the mid-safari hours. It's a small shaded enclosure with cushioned chairs and an outlook back to the restaurant. Piano music plays gently in the background, accompanied by the dulcet tones of construction work and our little pug buddy snoring and panting beside us. Emails are checked and answered, news read ... must be time for a cocktail.

Jacqui back ...

No time for a cocktail as our safari jeep (plus driver, guide and Yash) arrived earlier than the agreed time so we quickly grabbed all of the things we needed, slapped on some sunscreen and high tailed it to meet them. Then we were off to pick up three other travellers from another hotel (3 younger folk from England who are part of a group here in Indis for a friend's wedding ... get ready for the 3 days of partying!).

Then off to the National Park where we were allocated zone 5. The drive in is pretty much the same to the guard post and them instead of turning right we turned left. The terrain and flora was very different to what we had in morning. Desolate plains with bare trees, rocky shelves in tessellated layers, water in the form of rivers, ponds and dams.

The animals were much more out and about as well. Whilst we didn't see a tiger this time (remember it is rare ... there are just over 80 that live in the massive park) but we saw so many other animals. Again we saw Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Black-faced Langur (monkey), Mongoose, Indian Peafowl. We also saw lots of birdlife ... especially at the water ways ... the Jungle Babbler, Rufous Treepie, White-throated Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher and the Cormorant.

This time though we also saw crocodiles, herons, cranes, an eagle, an owl, Nigli (also known as the Blue Bull), one lone antelope and Yash spotted the flash of what we believe was a leopard when a Sambar Deer was startled and ran rapidly away. 

We had the chance to sit in our jeep and watch the monkeys as they descended a cliff face to drink at the river. They were playful, jumping from tree to tree and surrounding our jeep.

And then it was time to head out again ... back to exit the park. What a fabulous day!